Francis montesinos en Bread and Butter Barcelona - BBB 2007 January
Francis Montesinos has carved one of the most exciting and significant careers in the Spanish fashion industry. A visionary and creative innovator, his contribution to the industry has set new artistic standards and developed new trends. His aesthetics have influenced both the industry and the fashion culture.
He is a multidisciplinary, transgressor and provocative artist who has worked in many different fields: fashion, accessories, perfumes and graphic & industrial design. He has also collaborated in the fields of ballet, cinema and theatre. Montesinos was born in Valencia in 1950 and spent his childhood in “el Carmen”, an old and truly representative quarter of this Mediterranean city. This is, without question, the best area where one could grow up, study, play and wake up to a creative world. His creative interest led him to turn the traditional family industry into a space of creativity. In 1972 he opened his first shop in Valencia, which caught the interest of the Spanish society and led them to start frequenting the newly established fashion house outlet in search of a decidedly new and genuine style. Montesinos became a new way of communicating. His arrival in Barcelona took hold with his fashion shows in the Hotel Ritz and Teatro Olimpia, and stimulated a change of the way of thinking, of concepts and messages in the Spanish fashion industry. This gained both the recognition of the press and the interest of the industry. The “Fenómeno Montesinos” became something more than simply fashion; it was a way of thinking and a way of feeling. From the very moment of his success in Barcelona, he started being requested by some of the most important and influential fashion shows, including: Madrid, Paris, Berlin, Valencia… In the 80’s, he promoted a very personal “Made in Spain” concept which had an influence on the international fashion trends, and also became one of the key elements in the projection of Spain as an image of creativity and modernity. His eyes then fell upon Madrid for his next stage, where fashion shows took place in emblematic spaces, divided according to content and customers. The “Fenómeno Montesinos” was catapulted to main stream visibility by fashion shows in places such as Palacio de Cristal, Hotel Palace or Círculo Mercantil, where the main figures of the “movida” (Madrid scene) modelled for him: Pedro Almodóvar, Bibí Andersen, Bonezzi and Bosé amongst others. His presentation in the bull-ring La Ventas in front of 15,000 people set a precedent for the Spanish fashion industry, a showroom full of tributes to Picasso, Camarón, Sorolla. As the North American magazine Woman Week Daily said: there has never been so much art on the arena In 1988 the Senate of Berlin, that year’s cultural capital, invited Montesinos to participate together with Vivienne Westwood and Claudia Skoda in one of the most interesting investigation events in the fashion industry. The Berlin Dressater resulted in the international launching of Montesino’s new trend inspired by the Gipsy-look. That same year Montesinos predicts what Spain 92 will represent. Francis pays a tribute to the capital cities and events of 1992 with a macro fashion show in Madrid’s Rockodromo; with more than 300 athletes, models, and the participation of the National Ballet, rugby teams, horsewomen and jockeys. In the 90’s the regular fashion shows in Cibeles, FIMI and his numerous contributions in several areas, both cultural and industrial, increased Montesino’s image of versatility. Montesinos was the first Spanish designer to be awarded the Aguja de Oro de la Moda in 1985, and he also won the IMPIVA Award (Generalitat Valenciana) in 1986. Amongst his most significant works, it is important to draw attention to his design of the limited edition of Opel Tigra in 1995, and the costume design for the world premiere of the “Swans Lake” performed by the Ballet Nacional de Cuba, for which he was awarded the Artes Escénicas for the Best Wardrobe. He also designed the costumes for the film “Matador” by Pedro Almodóvar and for the ballet “Gitano” by Antonio Canales which granted him the Critics Award for the Best Costume. In addition to his exciting curriculum, he presented his show “Colección de Colecciones” (Collection of Collections) in September 2003 in Madrid, watched by more than 10,000 people. For the first time, he experienced a face-to-face encounter with all his creations, 32 years of Spanish fashion compiled in one show. “Comedias Bárbaras”, a theatre play by Valle-Inclán and directed by Bigas Luna, gave him the opportunity to design its entire wardrobe in September 2003, when it was first premiered at La Nave in Sagunto (Valencia). The design of a chair collection for Andreu World was proof of that there is no end to the diverse creativity of this Valencian artist. Montesinos has also given licenses to distribute his designs in carpets and household wear for O.A.T. He has also designed and created footwear which has later been produced by By-Pass. His idea was to contribute to a new feminine vision which combines both strength and passion together with practicality and functionality. He has also published the “Catálogo Razonado ‘Francis Montesinos, el porqué de una moda española’” (Reasoned Catalogue: Francis Montesinos: The Reason for a Spanish Fashion) in the Instituto Valenciano de Arte Moderno (IVAM). This publication is a compilation of the complete works of the designer (1950-2003). Between 2004 and 2005 the “Mundo Montesinos” grew in spectacular fashion broadening his universe with the household wear, suitcases, diaries, watches and stationery. Francis Montesinos provides originality to everyday items turning them into those unmistakably objects that only he can create. It is especially interesting the presentation of his children’s collection in the PITTI BIMBO Exhibition in Florence, one of the most prestigious exhibitions at an international level, in which Francis Montesinos was given an ovation for his creativity and talent by a fascinated audience. Montesinos has worked together with other designers in “ALAMODA”, a project to “dress” ecologic olive oil containers, which has been recently awarded “Alimentos de España” in the promotional area of Agroalimentaria. The 8th Edition of the Miami Fashion Week of the Americas witnessed Francis Montesinos art with his collection La Mar de Montesinos in the most important international and Latin American event in the USA. He was given the award to the Best Party Collection of MFW, proof of the great success of Montesinos’ proposals in this Caribbean event. The designer has created the first collection of First Communion dresses in collaboration with Marla Española S.A. In October 2006, it arrived Francis Montesinos finishing touch to his 35 years career when he was awarded “Medalla de Oro al Mérito de las Bellas Artes” which he received from Juan Carlos I, King of Spain. This award is granted to people and entities which stand out in the field of artistic and cultural creation, or which have been involved in the promotion and development of arts and culture. Once again, Francis Montesinos has been involved in the creation of the wardrobe of a Dance company “ANANDA DANSA”, which celebrates its 25 years in the artistic world. His work is characterised by the influence of folklore and his Valencian roots, and also by exploration and modernity, and without a doubt, by the reinterpretation of fashion from a personal and innovative point of view.
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